When nail extensions, most novice masters have many questions, and one of them is how to apply polygel. Not all specialists know how to work with the material, some of them out of habit use regular liquid gels. But if you learn about the features of polygel and the rules of working with it, it can be used to build up and repair nails.
What is polygel
Polygel is a material for nail building and strengthening. With it you can repair cracks in the coating, restore chipped areas, create any length. The product is ideal for those customers who have a base for gel varnish poorly held on their nails.
The material is a mixture of liquid gel and acrylic. In the past, masters themselves mixed both compositions to form a thick product. The result was a dense mass, which is convenient to put on the nails. Then, manufacturers began to produce a ready-made mixture, which allowed professionals to save time. The composition is sold in sealed tubes, from which the master squeezes it and dials it on the brush.
Polygel has another name – acrygel. In fact, these are two different materials, but they have many similar properties.
Advantages of polygel
The material has many advantages, here are some of them:
- The softness of the sawdust. The product is easy to align with a brush on the nail plate, making it easy to create a curved architecture with it. The result is an even coating, which can be only slightly trimmed with a file.
- Convenience for the master. Polygel does not bleed during the build-up or strengthening. Beginning masters with a low work rate find it especially convenient to use.
- Elasticity and lightness. After applying the composition to the nails, the client does not feel squeezed or heavy.
- Minimal burning. During nail extensions with conventional gel, the client may experience discomfort under the plate. When strengthening with polygel, burning may also appear, but not as strong. For this reason, masters often replace gel with it.
- Polymerization under a lamp. In the open air, the material does not dry and remains soft. If the master forgets to close the tube or puts it under direct sunlight, the quality of the product will not change.
- High durability. In the cured form, the composition is resistant to impact and chipping. For this reason, customers wear the coating for 3-4 weeks.
- The variety of shades. In the color palette of the material there are fully transparent, nude and bright variants. In the store “Entourage” you can find different shades of polygel of UNO and UNO Lux lines.
- Economy. If you know the rules of work with the material, it is not necessary to saw it off strongly when smoothing. Polygel lies on the plate evenly, so experienced masters do not need to remove its surplus.
What tools are needed for polygel extensions
To apply the composition to the nails, and then file it, you need to use auxiliary tools:
- Spatula or an orange stick. They are convenient to scoop out the required amount of product and apply it to the plate.
- A flat elastic brush. The tool distributes the composition on the nail, creating an even architecture. Narrow or puffy brushes are not suitable for this purpose, as they are inconvenient to press on the material.
- A build-up liquid. The product is necessary to prevent the mass from sticking to the brush. If you do not use liquid, the polygel will start to roll into a lump. As a result, after polymerization, the coating will be uneven, and the artist will have to spend extra time on filing.
- Degreaser. It is necessary to remove the sticky layer after drying under the lamp. Also, the degreaser is necessary to prepare natural nails for strengthening or extending.
- A file. It is necessary for smoothing the hard material after drying under the lamp. The file removes excess thickness and gives the coating a natural look.
How to build up polygel nails on the lower forms step by step
Before starting to build up, the nails must be prepared. At the initial stage, the master removes the old coating with a machine, removes excess length and levels the surface of the plate with a file. He then shapes the free edge and buffs the nails. Then the specialist pushes back the cuticle and cleans the plate of pterygium. At the end of the procedure, it is necessary to cut the cuticle with manicure scissors or a diamond cutter “Ball”. If desired, they can be replaced with a special remover, which softens and removes the rough skin.
To use polygel nail extensions on the lower forms, you need to:
- Moisten a lint-free cloth with degreaser and wipe the nail plates. The side grooves should also be carefully cleaned, especially if there is dust left in them.
- Fix one paper form under the free edge of the nail, so that the template will hold well on the finger.
- Determine the length of the free edge by marking it.
- Squeeze the compound out of the tube and apply to the nail with a spatula. A brush should be soaked in the construction fluid, and then gently distribute the material on the plate and the template. The product should be a thin layer near the cuticle area and the lateral rollers, and in the center it should be the biggest.
- Dry under a lamp, remove the paper form and remove the adhesive layer.
- Repeat the same steps with the remaining fingers.
- File all the nails with a file, shape them, level the surface. The sides of the free edge should be symmetrical and thin.
- Sweep off the dust from the file with a brush, degrease nails. Next, you can cover them with a top or colored gel varnish. The first option is suitable if the client likes minimalistic nude designs. A colored coating will look more bright, but it too must be secured with a top.
Note that polygel is suitable not only for extensions, but also for strengthening. For this procedure, the master will not need the bottom forms. When strengthening, it is necessary to repeat the same steps, but the material must be applied only to the nail plate without the use of templates. Then it is worth drying and correcting the shape. This option is suitable when the client does not want to lengthen the free edge.
How to build up polygel nails on the upper forms step by step
Before extending to the upper forms, the nails must be prepared as described above: remove the old coating, level the plate with a file, correct the shape and length, remove the pterygium and cuticle.
Next, it is necessary to:
- Sand the nails with a buff, remove sawdust with a brush and degrease the surface.
- Pick up the top forms according to the size of the nail plates. It is important that the plastic pads fit tightly to the wells. There should be a space under the top molds in the stressed area. It is not necessary to push hard on the overlays, it is enough just to put them on the nails. If the bottom edge of the plastic bases does not fit the shape of the plates or the width of the blanks is too large, the corners and sides of the products can be cut or filed.
- Arrange the top forms by size on the manicure table, so as not to mix them up during the build-up.
- Squeeze the material out of the tube and use a spatula to apply to the inside of the overlay. Moisten the brush with a construction fluid and distribute the polygel over the product, taking into account the future length and shape of the free edge. The cuticle area, lateral rollers and the end of the product should have the least product, and in the stress area – more.
- Place the product on the nail at a 45-degree angle with a slight indent from the cuticle. Lightly press the product to the plate so that it adheres tightly to it on all sides. It is not recommended to work with a strong pressure, otherwise the material may come out beyond the edges of the pad. If this happens, it is worth removing excess product from the skin with a wet brush.
- Dry the material under a lamp, then remove the overlay. If desired, the arch of the free edge can be made more curved. To do this, it is recommended to put your hand under the lamp for 10-15 seconds, then remove the form, put a clip on the nail plate and continue drying.
- Extend the remaining nails in the same way. Next, you need to file the shape of the free edges and level the surface of the coating.
- Dust off with a brush and degrease the nail plates. Next, you can paint them with gel nail polish, draw a design on them or just fix them with a top.
Tips for working with polygel
To quickly learn how to apply polygel to nail plates, it is recommended to remember a few tips:
- During the work with the material, the brush should be constantly moistened in the design fluid. To save time, it is better to pour the product into a small container in advance.
- Squeeze out the product in small portions. If the polygel is not enough, it is better to add it gradually. Do not squeeze a lot of material at once, otherwise the coating will be too thick, and you will have to spend more time on filing.
- To smooth out the coating should use a saw for 180 grits. If the abrasiveness is less, sawing will take longer.
- You should not put too much pressure on the product with a brush. The movements should be light and smoothing.
- Brushes with too hard pile should not be used for laying the material, otherwise they will spoil the surface of the coating.
- If the client has peeling, it is advisable to treat the nail plates with a primer before applying the polygel. The product additionally dries the nails and prepares them for further work.